Comments
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I have been surfing for half my life now, and what I dont understand is that these people`s boards get yanked back by the waves, and they obviously have a leash on. Surfing 7+ foot waves whenever I can, when your board gets caught in a wave, it pulls the board and makes you do the must painful splits ever.
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i dont know why but i like big waves. never experienced so big only around 3-4 metters
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I can not even thin how thong you would be under water for
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I went to school in San Diego and in the winter waves got very large and this brings me back. It is truly terrifying to have waves just keep coming and coming like this. U won't know until u experience it
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I thought the guy standing on the yellow longboard was on a sandbar at first and I was like, "well, he's done for the day"
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1 surviver..
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maybe wait till water crest small then go over. when bubbles excreted from my bum in bathtub I pinch nose go under.
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So scary 😭
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My best caught inside story was the one where I was the only one not caught. Playa Hermosa Costa Rica. I was stupid under-gunned with a 6'0", 1 3/4" thick Florida board on those pounding 15' faces. So, I learned real quick, after getting slammed repeatedly from being too slow, to let the mackers go by and catch the trailing waves of the set. #4 or 5 instead of #2 or 3. This meant I was farther out in the lineup than most and would start paddling in for my wave after the 2nd or 3rd of the set. At Hermosa, there is very little to hint at an approaching set until it's near. It rises up and the water nearby might boil like a spring a little. Then it's on you. In Florida, you can see it coming way out on the horizon. I can paddle halfway down the lineup in Florida before the set I'm chasing arrives. So I'm sitting out past everyone with a guy from Hawaii who says he's never surfed before and his friend who says he'd surfed almost everywhere. We're just chatting about whatever. Then it gets quiet because I just saw something I hadn't seen in about a week at Hermosa: the horizon was rising like in Florida! I paddled to sea with a motivation I didn't know I possessed. Every stroke deeper, faster, farther; then farther, faster, and deeper. "Paddle you fool, PADDLE!" I yelled at the non-surfer Hawaiian. The wave rose up and it was nothing like any I'd ever seen before! Then it started feathering at the top. The wind on the face picked up, and the nose of my board pointed skyward, and I paddled right up it as it lifted me backward. Then, at the crest and just as the lip began to throw out, I went airborne and over onto that beautiful calm water behind. I turned to see no one. Not one person was left in sight anywhere up or down the lineup. I never felt so good being me as I did at that moment. Everyone else gasping for air and wishing they still had both halves of their board. I paddled to the half drowned and panicking non-surfer Hawaiian who had both halves of his board but neither one connected to the other. He was out of his head and pleading for help. He wanted to know what to do with the pieces and thought he should just swim for shore without them. I don't know if I did the right thing or not, but I told him to keep the bottom half with it's leash attached so at least he could float if he got tired. But I wasn't about to hold his hand through the impact zone after what I'd just seen.
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0:10 I KNOW ITS A BAD IDEA TO RUN TO THE SHORE BUT THAT WAVE IS SCARY AS HELL
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When you accidentally move slo mo in real life XD
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Imagine you were a fish in one of those waves about to be hit with a person.
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omggg o........o
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Lol they must of broke bones
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What's the song?
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Damn nature, You Scary!
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Bro like these waves are like megladon waves!
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They could not select a more terrifying music!
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It happened to me and trust me it's not fun at all.
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This fucking made my heart stop. That is like my biggest fear. O~o
What It's Like To Get Caught Inside A 25+ Foot Wave? This is a collection of surfers doing just that. Waves like Mavericks, Jaws and The Wedge. Surfers in this video: Jamie Mitchell - Caught Inside with a 50 Foot Bomb at Pe'ahi, Jaws - Maui Jan 27th 2016 Jamie O'Brien - At The WEDGE Mark Healey - Two Wave Hold Down at Mavericks Caught Inside is when a surfer who is paddling out is too far in, and the waves are breaking further out. It can be dangerous in a big wave surf. The secret to surviving a huge set is: there is no secret. There are no Eastern breathing mantras that allow you to hold your breath for five minutes; there are no watermen trap doors in those swirling masses of turbulence that lead straight to the surface; there are no oxygen-giving dolphins waiting 15 feet below the surface. But this doesn't mean that your number's up if you're facing a 50-foot wall of foam. The fact is, surfers survive these situations every winter. Take it from me, who's had more than his fair share of lumps at Maverick's and had the privilege of being mowed by a huge one at Cortes Bank. And aside from needing a good set of lungs and some basic skills, there's really only one main requirement on the big-wave frontier: confidence. You need to know you can pull through in the worst possible situations. As soon as you panic, good judgment and the breath-holding capacity go out with the tide. Think about it: a long hold down is no more than 30 seconds. If you swim deep, keep your eyes open and let the turbulence have its way with you, there shouldn't be any reason why you won't come up for air, pumped for the next one. Big wave surfing is the ultimate celebration of extreme surfing. Challenging deadly waves in harsh weather and ocean conditions takes a very serious approach. Big wave surfers are not interested in performance. Forget perfect cutbacks, stunning floaters or breathless aerial antics. The profile of a big wave rider is the result of several unparalleled personal characteristics. Fear is always present in a 50-foot wave. Fear is the best way of managing the risk of paddling for a huge wave face, which doesn't tell you what is going to happen and how it is going to break. Monster waves tend to move quickly and force surfers to get away of the powerful whitewater. Big waves are lethal even for the most experienced extreme riders. The best big wave surf spots in the world have claimed several lives in the last decades. Malik Joyeux, Sion Milosky, Moto Watanabe, Mark Foo, Donnie Solomon, Todd Chesser, Dickie Cross and Peter Davi have passed away in extreme surfing conditions. Wipeouts, severe coral reef injuries and drowning are the most common causes of death in big wave surfing. The pioneers of big wave surfing started to eye impossible killer rides in the 1940's. In the 1960's, waves like Pipeline and Waimea increased the popularity of paddling into new wave heights. Going over the falls was the daily menu. Laird Hamilton is the first professional big wave surfer. The waterman from Maui defies fast, hollow and high waves with a full-time training and previous preparation. Hamilton, the father of tow-in surfing, takes on the entire big wave spots of the Hawaiian Islands, in helicopter style. Laird was born with the gene of defying danger. He designs and prepares his own surfboards and wetsuits. Wherever heavy waves break, Hamilton is there to ride them: Mavericks, Cortes Bank, Dungeons. In 2000, Laird Hamilton surfs what is considered the heaviest wave of all time. The "Millennium Wave" was ridden in the reef of Teahupoo, in Tahiti, and set a new standard for big wave surfing. Garrett McNamara is one of the toughest big wave challengers. After riding a spectacular 78-foot wave in Nazaré, Portugal, the Hawaiian waterman entered the Guinness World Records with the biggest wave ever surfed. The 55 best big wave surfers of all time is an exclusive extreme surfing club. From Jaws to Mavericks, Puerto Escondido, Punta Lobos, Ghost Trees, Belharra, Shipstern Bluff and Todos Santos, Nazare. these riders have set up a new scale in the definition of giant waves. They are: Al Mennie, Andy Irons, Anthony Tashnick, Ben Wilkinson, Bob Pike, Brock Little, Buzzy Trent, Carlos Burle, Chris Bertish, Danilo Couto, Darrick Doerner, Darryl Virostko, Dave Kalama, Dave Wassel, Eddie Aikau, Frank Solomon, Gabriel Villaran, Garrett McNamara, George Downing, Brad Gerlach, Gerry Lopez, Grant Twiggy, Baker Grant Washburn, Greg Long, Greg Noll, Ian Walsh, Jamie Sterling, Jay Moriarty, Jeff Clark, Jeff Rowley, Jose Angel, João de Macedo, Kai Barger, Keala Kennely, Ken Bradshaw, Ken Colllins, Koby Abberton, Kohl Christensen, Laird Hamilton, Laurie Towner, Mark Foo, Mark Healey, Mark Mathews, Mark Visser , Maya Gabeira, Mike Parsons, Nathan Fletcher, Pat Curren, Peter Mel, Ramon Navarro, Richie Fitzgerald, Ross Clarke-Jones, Shane Dorian, Sion Milosky, Zach Wormhoudt